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Church of the Nativity on the left above and the Armenian monastery on the right on Manger Square in Bethlehem in 1988; below, Greek Orthodox church at Shepherds' Field near Beit Sahur outside Bethlehem.
December 18, 1988
Mood somber in Holy Land this Christmas
By David Alexander
BETHLEHEM, Israeli-occupied West Bank (UPI) -- In a tiny shop not far from Manger Square, Jamil Khano put aside the Nativity figures he was carving and talked about peace on Earth and the Palestinian uprising.
"Believe me, believe me, believe me, I would like to have peace between Palestinians and Jews,"' said Khano, who makes olive-wood statues of Mary, Joseph and the baby Jesus for pilgrims visiting Bethlehem. "I would like for there to be peace at Christmas."
Similar sentiments are echoed throughout the city where Jesus was born. But for a second successive year, Christmas is unlikely to bring a respite from the somber mood wrought by the Palestinian uprising against Israeli occupation.
Bethlehem has curtailed celebrations this Christmas because of the year-old uprising. Only religious services are being held. The city is bare of festive lights and Christmas trees that are routine during better times.
"People are not in the mood to celebrate," said Mayor Elias Freij. "The present situation in the Arab villages, cities and camps is very sad. People are in a very sad mood."
Instead, Palestinian youths erect stone barricades across winding side roads climbing into central Manger Square, site of the Church of the Nativity, built over the place where tradition holds that Jesus was born.
Soldiers in riot gear patrol in trucks and jeeps, occasionally confronting rock-throwing youths or rounding up groups of Arab men to cart away stone roadblocks.
"With what we have gone through during the year and with all the sorrow around us, and with the martyrs and wounded and with many of our kids still detained, I don't see how we could celebrate Christmas," said Nicola Canavati, a Bethlehem businessman.
"We do celebrate the birth of Jesus in our hearts," he said, "and we can pray for those who have been killed, wounded and detained."
Tourism officials estimate only 6,000 people will visit the hilltop city south of Jerusalem during the Christmas season, which continues through much of January because religious groups mark the holiday on three different dates.
"Let's face it, people are afraid," said Mordechai Benari of Israel's Ministry of Tourism.
"I always remember Christmas being quiet in Bethlehem," said Canavati, who operates five stores catering to the tourist trade.
Despite the general impression, only 600 people braved the rain at Manger Square last Christmas Eve to listen to choral musuic and celebrate midnight mass at the Church of the Nativity.
The church, with its cobblestone floors, marble columns and wood-beam ceiling, stands on an asphalt square surrounded by city offices, an Israeli police department station and half a dozen souvenir shops.
The murmur of praying pilgrims rises from the small chapel beneath the main altar, said to be the cave where Mary gave birth. The sweet odor of incense hangs on the air.
Greek Orthodox officials said the simple church traditionally remains unadorned during the holiday season.
Christmas celebrations in Bethlehem begin when the Latin Patriarch leaves Jerusalem Dec. 24 and travels the 6 miles to Bethlehem over a road which Jerusalem city officials said would be decorated with colored lights, a decorated tree and a ''Merry Christmas'' sign.
The Roman Catholic leader is greeted on the outskirts of Bethlehem by city dignitaries before he travels to Manger Square to worship.
Security is always tight. There are military checkpoints between Jerusalem and Bethlehem. People go through metal detectors before entering Manger Square.
On Dec. 25 there are processions from Bethlehem to the nearby village of Beit Sahur, site of the field where Christians believe angels appeared to shepherds and told them of Jesus' birth.
Jerusalem officials said there would be no Bethelhem-like curtailment there.
In Nazareth, the Israeli Arab village where Christians believe Jesus was raised, officials said celebrations also would be curtailed. In the past, Nazareth's city-sponsored lights, decorations and celebrations have rivaled those in Bethlehem.
"We have canceled the celebrations because of the situation in the territories and the number of martyrs," said Safwan Fahoum, a spokesman for Mayor Tawfik Zayyad. "The atmosphere here is not for celebrations."